Friday, March 23, 2007

Is California Cabernet Too Big?

Dunham Cellars 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon IX Columbia Valley

(100% Cabernet Sauvignon)

$567/case, $47.25/bottle

Dunham Cellars is housed in an abandoned World War II airplane hangar in Walla Walla Washington. There, Eric Dunham, an ex-Navy man with a degree in Fluid Dynamics, crafts wines from the best vineyards all over Washington State.

Eric apprenticed at Hogue Cellars and was assistant winemaker at L'Ecole No. 41 before starting his own winery in 1995. He's received numerous accolades, including a 91 Score from the Wine Enthusiast for this 2003 Cabernet.

We loved Eric's marriage of New World fruit-forwardness and "Frenchy" structure in this delicious and most decidedly "Un-California" Cabernet.

Tasting Notes: Ripe, rich Friar plum and Bing cherry really come together, weaving themselves around a central core of black cherry, clove, anise and pomegranate. A dusting of cocoa and fine grained tannins lead to a truly pleasing finish. This Cabernet has a beautiful structure perfect to drink now, or age nicely for 10-15 years.

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